Think about it: how many
wholly-locally owned restaurants are on the east side of Evansville? There are a number of them, to be
sure, and they are owned by some of the most dedicated, downright friendly
people you’ll ever meet. But the overwhelming majority of restaurants east of
Highway 41 have corporate offices somewhere other than in RiverCity.
Compare that to the middle- and west side of town.
Hometown places that serve up good food are easy to find. Sure, the area west
of Rosenberger on the Lloyd is a Legoland of chains, but for the most part,
hometown favorites abound on the other side of the Highway.
At the risk of stretching the limits of acceptable
geography, I’m going to declare Frontier Tavern an eastside restaurant. Sure,
it’s north – in Daylight, in fact – but it’s a quick run to get there and since
changing hands to owners and operators Vicki Schmitt and John Backes, it’s worth
that run. And what the pair has done is bring a taste of the “best of the west”
to ScottTownship.
With a revamped menu, and the labor of love that comes
from wanting to see things done right, Schmitt and Backes took the helm in June
and immediately set about to bring a distinctly Evansvillian flavor to the
long-standing restaurant and bar. They start at 6 a.m. to get breakfast
started, and once 7 rolls around, they’re ready with the big guns. Why go to
the place up the road with the baseball-themed breakfast platter when you can enjoy
a homemade, hometown day starter? For $4.99 you can get two huge Texas-sized
French toast slices with a side of bacon or sausage. Lighter fare is available
via fresh biscuit sandwiches or ala carte options, so you can build your own
breakfast. For the monstrously hungry, Frontier offers their signature country
breakfast: grilled ham or country fried steak with three eggs, German fries and
a choice of biscuits and gravy or toast. Omelets any way you like, with all the
usual fillings and more are on tap; for only $6.99 you can have one any way you
like.
Plate specials for lunch are a staple throughout the
week, with homestyle choices made fresh in the kitchen. Sandwiches of every
stripe are on the menu; the Frontier Burger being among the most popular.
Grilled to order and topped with whatever you like, the succulent half-pounder
is a must-try. And here’s where the “east-meets-west” aspect of Frontier
Tavern’s menu really starts to show. German bologna sandwich. Brain sandwich.
Pork tenderloin. Yep.
Frontier also has a killer Reuben, one of the finest
open-faced roast beef sandwiches anywhere and an awesome, savory, B.L.T.
perfect for lunch or dinner.
Nighttime brings out more of the really good stuff.
Specials are offered nightly – in particular, Friday nights are when Fiddler
fanatics can jump into the deep end and chow down on all-you-can eat southern
or Cajun-style catfish fiddlers. Cooked the traditional way, with two sides,
hushpuppies and homemade tartar sauce, Frontier has one of the last great
Friday night fish fries in the area, all for only $12.99.
Owners and operators John Backes and Vicki Schmitt are servin’ up a killer Reuben and an open-faced roast beef sandwich worth the quick drive.
I have to talk about their onion rings. In many
restaurants, onion rings are pulled out of the freezer, absentmindedly tossed
into the fryer and served without a thought from where they came. Not at
Frontier. They hand cut each slice – big ones – and dip them in their own
secret batter, fry them lovingly and serve them with a small but important
sauce… Zesty sauce. There are about a half-dozen ingredients in it, and it definitely
has a kick, not a big, overwhelming heat, but a perfect balance of sweet,
hotness and savory taste. Ask for the zesty sauce. Put in on your burger, too. Dip
the awesome appetizer platter items in it. You’ll love it.
As you can tell, Frontier pulls all the best fare
Evansville’s residents like so much and put them all together into something
that amounts to homegrown, homestyle, local and friendly. Nothing fancy, just
good eats.
Frontier Tavern has a smoke-free family room as well as a
bar area with full bar service. Cornhole tournaments have become popular on
Tuesday nights in the official “Frontier Tavern Events Pavilion.” Karaoke
happens Friday nights and live entertainment from popular local bands is
scheduled regularly. Check out the Nightlife Guide for who’s playing there and
when.
Make that quick run to Daylight when you’re hungry for
something real, local and delicious. Say hello to Vicki and John while you’re
there – if they don’t say hello first, which is more likely than not.
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